But, first off, what we have here is a large, heavy, and immensely warm coat, made to serve its wearer all winter long. It has a large collar, and is just about long enough to cover a suit jacket.
The peacoat has what's known, at least in the garment trade of east and north-east London, as an Ulster collar. It is cut such that it is just as happy to stand upright, skimming the neck at the sides and back, as it is sitting down — but even then, it is proud, and is never concave or flat or in any way apologetic.
The peacoat has a front of six buttons, stationed in three pairs, plus a further pair of smaller buttons which are hidden under the collar. These latter buttons enable the coat to be fastened right across the neck, serving as a formidable guard against the very worst of Mother Nature.
The buttons on the peacoat are large, solid horn — dark in colour and matte in finish — and each is a little different from one to the next. They are in that regard as if alpha-keratin snowflakes — such is the beauty of being a product of a high-grade natural material, rather than, say, a plastic replica.
There are two pockets on each side of the peacoat, which work in tandem to make life as pleasing as possible for the wearer. Its patch pockets are the most obvious ones, since they're of elephantine proportions. They're strengthened on both sides with bar-tacks — as every stress-point on the peacoat.
Less obvious are the "warmer" pockets, built into the body seam. These are partly submerged within the aforementioned patch pockets. In this way, they occupy a lower position on the body, making the resting of tired hands or the stuffing of cold ones among the most satisfying physical actions imaginable.
The coat has half-cuffs at the end of its sleeves. A nod to tradition, these, which are more typically seen on uniform coats and more formal styles of outerwear. These are more conservative than the great half-cuffs of yore, and serve no purpose other than to introduce a little pinch of grandeur.
The peacoat has an innovative sleeve. It is a one-piece sleeve which is cut to combine the sharp, smart — not to mention traditional — look of an inset sleeve at the front, with the ease and comfort of a raglan at the back. It equals a very, very soft shoulder, draping naturally over the lines of the wearer.
Inside, the peacoat has a chest pocket on the left-side as worn. Handy. Perhaps more importantly, though, the inside of the coat is faced with an extra layer of outer cloth — meaning that, when fully done up, there are four layers of thick cloth between the chest of the wearer and the harsh winds of the world outside.
The peacoat is lined halfway down the back with a smooth and slinky satin, cut as a single panel. It helps with sliding the peacoat on and off, being as the outer cloth has the potential for friction. The sleeves, too, are lined with the same cloth.
The wool melton is a replica of cloth woven by the same mill, on the same premises, over half a century ago for the British Army. It is heavy, sure, but with tremendous drape and flow. The yarn from which it is woven — of British sheep — is worsted-spun, hence is more lustrous than usual.
