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Dress trousers in lead grey

Dress trousers in lead grey

$361.00

Colours

ColorLead Grey
Size
Trousers, made in London, with a springy but sturdy (12oz) worsted hopsack from West Yorkshire and horn buttons from the Cotswolds.

Last order for pre-Christmas delivery: 15th December for the UK, 8th December for the rest of the world.

The dress trousers are fundamentally trousers of the old school, with a moderately high rise, plenty of room in and around the seat for comfort, and fullness built into the upper leg to avoid pull and stretch. They taper, gently, from the knee down, with the end result being middling: neither wide nor slim.

The trousers fasten with a buckle at the side. How this works is, the waistband keeps going, past the fly, and meets a buckle attached to a tab on the right side as worn. Works like a belt, gives a clean look at the front, and means the wearer can adjust the size should they shrink or grow over the passage of time.

The front of the trousers has two pleats on each side. They are stitched down by a length of two inches from the base of the waistband, and then, with horizontal bar-tacks as punctuation, fan out, providing the front of the trousers with shape, comfort, and ample room for pocket-rummaging.

There are five pockets on the trousers, the main ones of which are tucked into the outer side seams. They're barely visible, but are deep and sturdily made, using very fine but very strong cotton, so are exceptionally pleasing to plunge hands into.

Never overlook the little coin pocket, built into the waistband. It lurks ready for the storage of loose change or keys, even a bank card or two, on the right side as worn.

With so much activity on the front of the trousers, the back is comparatively sparse. There are, however, two pockets lurking back there — tucked into the waistband seam on the left and right sides. No diminutive coin pockets, these: they're as deep or deeper than the pockets on any comparable trousers.

The buttons on the trousers are real horn, middling in colour and matte in finish. The trousers have a button fly of three such buttons, as well as two others, which fasten the fly-guard and the front of the trousers before the belt is swept across.

The inside legs have French seams, and are thus durable such that you'd have to do something dramatic — acrobatic, even — to split them open. The outside legs are flat seam, however, to achieve a smooth silhouette. Bar-tacks, meanwhile, abound: a half-dozen or more supporting the points of most wear and tear.

They are lined to the knee, front and back, with soft, breathable satin. The way this lining is constructed makes the trousers as tidy when turned inside-out as outside-out, as is cut on the selvedge for a flat finish. The lining makes it easy — nay, pleasurable — to slide one's legs up and down and all around.

Bedford cord is best thought of as "like corduroy but not as soft". Doesn't have the same cut pile, see, which gives standard corduroy its trademark velvet-like handle. Bedford cord, though also cotton, is made in an entirely different way, and is more utilitarian: firmer, stronger, and more understated.

As worn

The gent here has a waist of 33" — an awkward size, but here he is wearing a sizeM, and with the belt tightened at the back. And it's a fair cop: these are the slim trousers, not the dress trousers. They're similar in fit, but the slims taper more from the knee to the ankle.

Makers of

The trousers are made in London by a factory which — since they are so sturdily built, particularly at the seams — specialises in heavy outerwear. Making them, in fact, can be a gruelling task, entailing as it does umpteen more stages than most trousers — at least five of which demand a hammer.

Local production — this cloth is an exemplar of it. The wool which goes into the worsted comes from the backs of white-face Cheviot sheep in North Yorkshire, and is spun, washed, and woven at textile facilities, all within a small radius around the boundary North and West Yorkshire.

The brass hardware is made by a foundry in the West Midlands, which was founded in the 1800s. It is the last such foundry in an area once heaving with them. Its sand-casting method — which sees 940°c molten brass poured by hand from a crucible into sand-made moulds — is ancient and infallible.

The horn buttons are cut, shaped, and polished by the last horn button-makers in Britain. Relocated from the Midlands to the Cotswolds, they continue a tradition going back to the 18th century."It is no easy task,"claimed William Hutton in 1780,"to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."

So they say

The standard trousers arrived today. Man o' man — how in the world did you manage to surpass even my most wildest of expectations? Your obvious reverence for craftsmanship in addition to the care you gave me before, during, and after the purchase will always be remembered when I spring for additional purchases in the near future.

So says a man in Portugal about his trench in weatherproof ripstop in April 2023.

I'd like to give you a review on the Herdwick trench coat. It completely lives up to its reputation. Old world functionality at its finest. We had an especially cold and bitter winter, even a few white-out condition snow storms, so I was able to really test the coat in the elements. I wore it while making snowmen and hiking in wind-driven snow flurries. Neither the wind, cold, nor snow could penetrate this tweed. The trench kept me toasty warm and dry throughout all conditions. And it came out looking no worse for wear, after it dried up. Very impressive stuff!

Warming words from a man who purchased the trench in Herdwick tweed in October 2021.

What an amazing coat! This purchase experience has been exceptional with super fast shipping and nice packaging. Many thanks to you for crafting such beautiful garments with materials of exceptional quality. The size is perfect, especially the back length, as some long coats make my leg appear short. Thank you again for offering such amazing garments with superb quality, while being extremely reasonably priced. It is so nice to have your shop to look at for some proper clothes — do please keep the great work!

A man very generous with his feedback, following purchase of the trench in tweed in late November 2019.

I am pleased to say the trench has landed. The coat is a thing of beauty, and the fabric is wonderful in its intricacy.

So said a man in Spain who picked up the trench in heavy tweed in November 2019.

Many thanks for sending the coat to me. I've worn it to work this morning and it's a fine piece altogether — very smart, and beautifully put together. I do like the craftsmanship in your work, so do keep up the good work.

Feedback from a man in the States, who purchased the trench coat in weatherproof ripstop in August 2019.

Boy, am I glad I took your advice and did not do any alterations. The sleeve-length and overall length of the coat are just right, and most importantly, the build quality is superb. I've never been able to buy an off-the-rack coat that fits me this well. I'm glad I found your company, and got my hands on this beautiful trench coat. Hopefully, one day, I'll be able to visit your workshop. Until then, stay classy.

Enthusiastic feedback from Finland, regarding a trench coat in Bedford cord, bought in September of 2018.

I received the trench, and it is beautiful and quite subtle...

Kind words from a gentleman in the States who purchased the trench in Bedford cord in September 2018.

The trench coat has just arrived, and has already passed the She Who Must Be Obeyed test with flying colours.

The gentleman here bought a trench in Shetland woollen twill back in January 2016.

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