What we have here is a duffle coat rooted in the traditions of the form — foremost in being a very substantial woollen coat, made with deep winter firmly in mind. But there is novelty and innovation here and there, too, to make it more useful and interesting to wear than perhaps a run-of-the-dull miffle.
The hood covers all parts of the head save the face — such as is the least requirement for a hood — and, with shapely three-panel construction, hugs the crown and curves cleanly around the forehead and temple. There is a small tab at the back of the hood to adjust its fit for the small of head / short of neck.
The toggles are horn, and are handmade individually by a maker with some two-centuries experience, in the north of England. They are large, heavy, and clunk in a satisfying sort of way when knocked together. Being as they are a natural product, the colour and markings of each one is unique.
The toggles are fixed to the coat with rope — a jute rope, braided in the traditional way with a loose-laid single yarn, in the south of England. It has a deep, rich colour, and while it has a fairly gnarly appearance, is soft and smooth in the hand, so that opening and closing the coat is fast and frictionless.
Two brass press-studs here, to open and close the neck of the coat. The cloth is so thick that the neck stands up anyway, so you can get a good amount of winter-protection even with the coat half-open.
The coat has two pockets at the front, which are each covered with a large flap. They are positioned at a height such that cold hands are instinctively compelled to make regular use of them.
Bar-tacks make frequent appearances on the duffle coat, such as at the entrance to the pockets. They serve to strengthen the coat at all points of stress. Long-term wear without the tear.
The coat has one further pocket: hidden in plain sight at the front of the coat, beneath the left-side of the yoke. It is a vertical opening between the first and second toggles. Just the right size, this pocket, for wallets, keys, mobiles, or cigarette packets.
The duffle coat has a somewhat innovative construction, in that, at the front, it has what looks to be a set-in sleeve. A standard type of sleeve, this — the norm for a duffle coat — where the seam follows the line of the wearer's shoulder. From the front, then, the coat has a structured, smart appearance.
At the back, however, is a raglan sleeve — the giveaway being the seam running diagonally into the neck. This sort of sleeve brings much more freedom to the upper body, and means that despite the bulk of the coat, the wearer can still move with ease — all the while enjoying the clean line at the front.
The coat has cuff tabs which fasten to one of two levels of tightness with the help of press-studs (of the same species as at the neck).
The coat is unlined. Duffle coats, traditionally, are — not always, but most often — and rely on the warmth and quality of the outer cloth to keep the wearer happy. The duffle coat here is no exception. With no lining to cover them, all internal seams are neatly finished with grey cotton binding.
The wool melton is a replica of cloth woven by the same mill, on the same premises, over half a century ago for the British Army. It is heavy, sure, but with tremendous drape and flow. The yarn from which it is woven — of British sheep — is worsted-spun, hence is more lustrous than usual.
