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Herdwick on the grapevine: 12th March 2024
The pleasures and the pressures of working alongside acquaintances who are also one-of-a-kind suppliers. "Herdwick on the grapevine"More
Factory record: 5th July 2023
Consider the bumblebee. A ludicrous little fella: oblivious entirely to the impossibility of his fuzzy form being able to fly. "Factory record"More
But why epaulettes?: 3rd November 2022
The abundance of parts vestigial in menswear is hardly surprising given our propensity to cling to the past. "But why epaulettes?"More
Shirt shrift: 17th May 2022
Presenting a collection of relaxed, comfortable, and over-engineered tops for the warmer months of the year. "Shirt shrift"More
Perspiring to greatness: 29th December 2021
Grafting a shoulder usually found only in fine golfing attire onto an imposing coat shape is just as simple as it sounds. "Perspiring to greatness"More
Like tweed used to be: 7th July 2021
Every now and then, along comes a cloth special in and of itself; with provenance and origin worth blathering about. "Like tweed used to be"More
Match of the day: 12th February 2021
Pitch-side seats for the back-and-forth humdinger that is machinist versus first sample of the brand new car coat. "Match of the day"More
Drafts, cuts, and leaves: 17th December 2020
If making it look easy is a tell-tale sign of mastery, then the pattern-cutter drafting a sleeve is a live demonstration of it. "Drafts, cuts, and leaves"More
The advent of spring: 14th December 2020
The annus horribilis to end all annusses horribilis comes to a close with an uplifting run of new developments. "The advent of spring"More
Scantily glad: 8th August 2020
The trend of wearing not much in the middle of a heatwave is one with which the workshop is finally catching up. "Scantily glad"More
Can’t shut up: 12th April 2020
Self-isolation is one thing, but when it's not so much voluntary as government policy, it becomes another entirely. "Can’t shut up"More
Career change: 6th August 2019
Year after year of nurturing along a generation of outerwear has left the car coat without much sense of self. "Career change"More
Impersonation of shopkeepers: 31st July 2019
The rich tradition of world-beating shopkeeping-specific attire in this country the shopcoat hopes to continue. "Impersonation of shopkeepers"More
Single-breasted vision: 25th July 2019
In which it transpires the SB coat is but a small suite of high-spec parts away from its fully evolved Chesterfield form. "Single-breasted vision"More
That summer feeling: 10th July 2019
Soft of handle and teeming of texture, the new polo shirt, v-neck, and cardigan are the feel-good knits of the summer. "That summer feeling"More
Sleeve preservation society: 7th July 2019
There are many ways wild and exotic to cut a sleeve, and few more so than the Magyar sleeve of the field jacket. "Sleeve preservation society"More
Parka the problem: 14th January 2019
If we can all agree that every parka is a coat with a hood, then does that mean that every coat with a hood is a parka? "Parka the problem"More
No more second trenches: 12th January 2019
While the trench coat found fame and fortune on civvy street, all its no-buttoned comrade found was obscurity. "No more second trenches"More
Topical, tropical, topographical: 26th July 2018
This fabric — from farm to ex-factory within a 20-mile radius — puts the local into locally made tropical worsted. "Topical, tropical, topographical"More
Walking a fine line: 23rd July 2018
Trousers, here, of the slim-leg variety — this time made with high-count cotton poplin from north-east Scotland. "Walking a fine line"More
Mad dogs and Englishmen: 20th July 2018
There are better times for coats than amidst Mother Nature's most concerted baking of the British Isles since '76. "Mad dogs and Englishmen"More
Digging trenches again: 10th July 2018
Work is not ongoing with the trench, apart from in the sense that work is always ongoing, on everything, all the time. "Digging trenches again"More
Fastenating development: 1st July 2018
These new buttons: not better than the old ones, per se, but certainly with a few unique, mildly wondrous, benefits. "Fastenating development"More
The alright outdoors: 14th April 2018
The field coat is ready for the great outdoors, for sure, but also doesn't mind staying in for the afternoon, either. "The alright outdoors"More
Synthetic serendipity: 12th March 2018
One of the lightest cloths in the Heavy Woollen District is also the toughest — and is now the bane of factory life. "Synthetic serendipity"More
Donkey work: 21st January 2018
About a garment whose name, from historical association to equine connotation, is so redolent of work. "Donkey work"More
The Kelly imposition: 30th November 2017
Here, there, and everywhere, the classics. But reassuring as they are, definite articles aren't always the most interesting. "The Kelly imposition"More
Duffle debut, overdue: 28th November 2017
That the duffle coat has waited two years for a formal introduction is entirely fitting for this gentle outerwear giant. "Duffle debut, overdue"More
Ready when it’s ready: 20th June 2017
Murmurings about the development of a new parka become more than just murmurings — second time around. "Ready when it’s ready"More
Male pattern boldness, pt. 4: 13th June 2017
There are many ways to cut a shoulder, and few more tricky than the saddle shoulder of the new flight jacket. "Male pattern boldness, pt. 4"More
Some Ventiles, pt. 5: 30th March 2017
The newest Ventile in the world, debuting here in the form of the balmacaan, is so fine you’ve written on paper thicker. "Some Ventiles, pt. 5"More
Male pattern boldness, pt. 3: 22nd March 2017
There's no escaping the pressure that comes with giving a garment a name like topcoat: to be, at the very least, good. "Male pattern boldness, pt. 3"More
Hemp the aged: 26th November 2016
Some words about a new shirting — one which harks to a time before cotton; to when hemp was top of the crops. "Hemp the aged"More
Male pattern boldness, pt. 2: 29th October 2016
Who said the march of progress had to be a strident one? Here, the trench moves forward a small but significant step. "Male pattern boldness, pt. 2"More
Male pattern boldness, pt. 1: 2nd October 2016
About a peacoat which is happy to talk of the past, but respectfully, politely, tries to move the conversation along a bit. "Male pattern boldness, pt. 1"More
A short fluffy tale: 5th June 2016
A story in which all is not what it seems in the world of rabbit-derived super-soft south-west Wales-woven woollens. "A short fluffy tale"More
Straw hat argument: 19th April 2016
Hand-woven toquilla palm leaf, multiplied by blocking and finishing in south-east England, equals new panama hat. "Straw hat argument"More
Of middling quality: 2nd March 2016
Two new mid-layers, here, made with a linen-cotton hopsack from the easternmost reaches of Lancashire. "Of middling quality"More
Caan-do: 5th January 2016
A colloquial term from the Highlands, the balmacaan is a woollen walking coat which is anything but pedestrian. "Caan-do"More
SEHK-SH-01 revisited: 27th December 2015
Change comes to us all — including, five years on from its debut, that most unsung of workshop stalwarts, the shirt. "SEHK-SH-01 revisited"More
Fur heads: 24th December 2015
Introducing the every hat: made by a factory which has felted and blocked the finest fur since Wellington was wee. "Fur heads"More
Relapelling: 14th November 2015
So long as there's a front, and a back, and two sleeves, it is through its lapel that a jacket makes its first impressions. "Relapelling"More
Some Ventiles, pt. 4: 24th September 2015
The immovable object that is 15oz duck canvas meets the unstoppable force of Lancashire's water-hating cotton. "Some Ventiles, pt. 4"More
A spectacle frame, pt. 2: 15th May 2015
It transpires, then, that to get a brand new spectacle frame spot-on, on most faces, takes longer than you might think. "A spectacle frame, pt. 2"More
Eilean hopping, pt. 3: 8th May 2015
From an island off the north coast of Scotland to a jacket factory off the North Circular: a new linen has landed. "Eilean hopping, pt. 3"More
Some Ventiles, pt. 3: 4th May 2015
Introducing a world-first with everyone's favourite north-western water-proof wünder-cloth: L24 Ventile Ripstop. "Some Ventiles, pt. 3"More
The shirt line: 27th March 2015
The simple things made very well — this time around, in linen, and cotton, and in a very heavy combination of the two. "The shirt line"More
Eilean hopping, pt. 2: 6th February 2015
Separating flax from fiction with a weaver in the Outer Hebrides who weaves linen while all around her weave tweed. "Eilean hopping, pt. 2"More
An unassuming wardrobe: 28th October 2014
The workshop — all its paraphernalia and people — has upped sticks, just for one week, to Vitsœ in central London. "An unassuming wardrobe"More
Eilean hopping, pt. 1: 17th September 2014
There is one issue for which any referendum is redundant: some people in Scotland are good at making cloth. "Eilean hopping, pt. 1"More
The reversible overshirt: 5th September 2014
The reversible overshirt: built like an overcoat — as opposed to a shirt — and made from cotton and wool cord. "The reversible overshirt"More
Some Ventiles, pt. 2: 8th August 2014
There is a new type of Ventile, whose name — weft-dyed Ventile — is also the easiest way to describe what it is. "Some Ventiles, pt. 2"More
A spectacle frame, pt. 1: 8th June 2014
Frames for spectacles — or, if you prefer, sunglasses — being made with gold and acetate, now, by hand, in London. "A spectacle frame, pt. 1"More
Some Ventiles, pt. 1: 21st May 2014
If it can keep people at the end of the earth warm and dry, heavyweight Ventile is a safe bet for the new navy car coat. "Some Ventiles, pt. 1"More
On crotch-pieces: 19th April 2014
The crotch-piece can’t help sounding like a joke, but the approach to trouser-making it represents is very serious indeed. "On crotch-pieces"More
Iteration, iteration, iteration: 3rd April 2014
"If it ain’t broke,” it is easy to say, "don’t fix it." What an unambitious way of thinking. Just ask the tour jacket. "Iteration, iteration, iteration"More
Two new cottons, pt. 2: 5th March 2014
Exciting name for a cloth, airweave — and, with its breathable holey structure, the excitement doesn't end there. "Two new cottons, pt. 2"More
Two new cottons, pt. 1: 27th February 2014
New shirting from Lancashire has the easy-going wrinkled charm of linen and the crisp uniformity of good cotton. "Two new cottons, pt. 1"More
Hand-woven herringbone indigo: 2nd February 2014
The blue-stained trail of farce and fiasco begins anew, with a hand-woven 3-1 twill of the very finest rope-dyed indigo. "Hand-woven herringbone indigo"More
The Dobcoat: 13th December 2013
Right now at the one-man-mill: the first cloth woven on the first power loom in the capital since the Great Exhibition. "The Dobcoat"More
Out of the rubble, pt. 2: 6th December 2013
The chorus of button-making contraptions suggests things are going in the right direction in the Midlands. "Out of the rubble, pt. 2"More
Out of the rubble, pt. 1: 27th November 2013
Somewhere in the Midlands is a start-up — not a new-fangled start-up, though, but one that makes old-fangled buttons. "Out of the rubble, pt. 1"More
Heavy metal riff, pt. 2: 21st November 2013
Brow-mopping moments at the brass-buckle maker in the West Midlands — all in the name of quality hardware. "Heavy metal riff, pt. 2"More
You and your scarf: 10th November 2013
Few things will insulate a throat better than a six-foot length of plain-tuck-plain-tuck-plain-tuck-stitch lambswool. "You and your scarf"More
The outer-knit: 6th November 2013
The ongoing drop in temperature rendered all but irrelevant thanks to the return of the tuck-stitch jumper. "The outer-knit"More
The return of Tetris tweed: 31st October 2013
Curious cloth, Tetris tweed, with old-as-it-gets provenance, and modern, surprisingly geometric make-up. "The return of Tetris tweed"More
On the road in Donegal: 25th October 2013
Over to a remote corner of north-west Ireland and the weavers, spinners, and knitters tucked away within it. "On the road in Donegal"More
Digging trenches: 13th October 2013
The challenges of doing something not wholly classic with that most classic of classics, the cotton-twill trench coat. "Digging trenches"More
Peacoats of Donegal County: 2nd October 2013
All-new peacoats made from ludicrously dense, multifariously coloured, and stupendously textured wool-tweed. "Peacoats of Donegal County"More
Laying on the lambswool: 29th September 2013
When autumn gets going, you'll know about it, unless you take to layering with the likes of the new marl cardigan. "Laying on the lambswool"More
Peacoat comeback: 10th September 2013
The peacoat is coming back — fatly collared and five-button as before, but in new cloth from County Donegal. "Peacoat comeback"More
Heavy metal riff, pt. 1: 24th July 2013
On the trail of the last brass foundry in the Midlands: an area of pioneering metal-work since before Ozzy was a boy. "Heavy metal riff, pt. 1"More
Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 4: 27th June 2013
The first, and perhaps the last, rope-dyed indigo-cotton blazer hand-woven and hand-made in London, is finished. "Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 4"More
Anti-craft movement: 27th May 2013
"Weaving is an industry. It is not a craft," says the one-man-mill, flanked by his clanking chain-powered colleagues. "Anti-craft movement"More
Down with collars: 20th May 2013
The no-collar condition of the new collarless jacket isn't so much a deficiency as a multi-use, all-season blessing. "Down with collars"More
Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 3: 13th May 2013
Pattern-developments begins on a garment that may or may not be considered a type of workwear. "Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 3"More
Joined-up making: 9th May 2013
The onion-stitch blazer: the result of north-west mill and north-west quilting maestro working hand in glove. "Joined-up making"More
Consider the linen suit, pt. 2: 1st May 2013
The linen suit: a niche pursuit. But, cut precisely, with good cloth, and worn at ease, it has something for everyone. "Consider the linen suit, pt. 2"More
Mac with detachable liner: 27th March 2013
The seasons have fallen out of season but, to the new Ventile mac and its button-out detachable liner, it matters not a jot. "Mac with detachable liner"More
100% cotton: 22nd March 2013
Hand-loomed by the best in the Isles, there's only one problem with the cotton cardigan: no one believes it's cotton. "100% cotton"More
Technical issues: 6th March 2013
Made from clever old Ventile cotton, the detachable hood jacket performs commendably come rain or shine. "Technical issues"More
Youth and wisdom: 3rd March 2013
The new three-button blazer is made using tweed hand-woven by a father-son mill in Ireland's County Donegal. "Youth and wisdom"More
Open and shut case: 20th February 2013
Makers come and makers go, but the jersey and hosiery maker in Leicestershire, recently, did both. "Open and shut case"More
Spinning plates: 22nd January 2013
About developing garments, making garments, and selling garments — and doing all three at the same time. "Spinning plates"More
Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 2: 5th January 2013
The start of the year finds the one-man-mill picking up where he left off: indigo newly wound, ready for weaving. "Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 2"More
Off the beaten track: 28th December 2012
Time and patience are what's needed when working within the bounds of one coastline. That and an inside man. "Off the beaten track"More
Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 1: 17th December 2012
Work begins afresh at the one-man-mill. Rope-dyed indigo this time; two colours warp and one weft ready to wind. "Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 1"More
London weaving, pt. 4: 7th December 2012
Wool-tweed woven, peacoats made, and now, as work with the one-man-mill draws to a close, papers printed. "London weaving, pt. 4"More
High-ply and hand-framed: 4th December 2012
Heavyweight hand-made knitwear: needs museum-grade contraptions and a century of so's expertise to do well. "High-ply and hand-framed"More
Herringbone plus barleycorn: 14th November 2012
The seam jacket balances busy wool-cashmere cloth with design that on the face of it appears to do very little. "Herringbone plus barleycorn"More
London weaving, pt. 3: 11th November 2012
And so to the looms for the third, final, and easily most painstaking part of the making-tweed-in-London project. "London weaving, pt. 3"More
London weaving, pt. 2: 24th October 2012
Making bespoke wool-tweed from yarn of British sheep enters stage two: winding of tens of thousands of metres of warp. "London weaving, pt. 2"More
Two for one: 12th October 2012
Don't be fooled — the wool reversible jacket is in fact two four-button jackets in the same space-time dimensions. "Two for one"More
Tuck-stitch knitwear: 3rd October 2012
The jumpers have landed; ten-ply tuck-stitch jumpers that are at once both absurdly thick and incredibly soft. "Tuck-stitch knitwear"More
When wales run widthways: 24th September 2012
With its wales running from left to right not top to bottom, the horizontal cord blazer calls for lateral thinking. "When wales run widthways"More
The imperfect shirt: 10th September 2012
The semi-cutaway-collared shirt is back once again in brushed Cumbrian wool-cotton — a notch better than before. "The imperfect shirt"More
Cord, raglan; raglan, cord: 30th August 2012
Grade-A Lancastrian cord and the raglan shirt: for so long in opposite corners of the factory, but today together at last. "Cord, raglan; raglan, cord"More
Wind and rainproof Ventile mac: 23rd August 2012
The most tightly woven cotton going, Ventile is by right the go-to for action-heroes and top-level twitchers. "Wind and rainproof Ventile mac"More
London weaving, pt. 1: 21st August 2012
The prospect of weaving cloth in London using yarn of rare breeds of British sheep: not one that comes along every day. "London weaving, pt. 1"More
Quietly does it: 11th August 2012
Not so much as a whisper in the past few months — but, behind the scenes, at the makers, it's been full steam ahead. "Quietly does it"More
Spotting the difference: 25th July 2012
Similar inputs, similar outputs, similar contraptions in the middle — no wonder factories often look much the same. "Spotting the difference"More
Beyond the bell marked 1: 2nd July 2012
It's still a workshop-in-progress, but the cloth is in, the patterns are in, and, importantly, so are the garments. "Beyond the bell marked 1"More
Two-button neat jacket: 2nd June 2012
The neat jacket lets its three components — wool-cashmere, crisp cotton, natural corozo — speak for themselves. "Two-button neat jacket"More
Cuffs, collars, sleeves, and yokes: 30th May 2012
Over three floors in a narrow Victorian workhouse, shirts of unimpeachable quality are cut, sewn, and finished. "Cuffs, collars, sleeves, and yokes"More
Lightweight but not lightweight: 28th May 2012
Like the Irish linen from which it is made, the summer-time mac is exact in many respects, and in others easy-going. "Lightweight but not lightweight"More
Inward appearances: 9th May 2012
The collarless overshirt — a union of Lancastrian cord and cotton-drill — has more going on inside than out. "Inward appearances"More
Consider the linen suit, pt. 1: 1st May 2012
Few get-ups get a rap so bad, but start with steadying Lancastrian linen, and a new school of linen-ism awaits. "Consider the linen suit, pt. 1"More
Cleve Workshops: 83 days later: 25th April 2012
Built in 1895, the workshop has seen better days, but after three months of rehabilitation is ready for visitors. "Cleve Workshops: 83 days later"More
Soft cloth, stout make: 23rd April 2012
Made by an outerwear-specialist factory in North London, the pinpoint raglan shirt is made with real sturdiness. "Soft cloth, stout make"More
Cord-inated efforts: 20th March 2012
To complement last week's corduroy tour jacket come two new bottom-half-bedecking instances of wale-wear. "Cord-inated efforts"More
The tour jacket, mk. II: 14th March 2012
The tour jacket can be slung, rucksack-like, onto the back. Good for touring — or, more likely, being out and about. "The tour jacket, mk. II"More
Wax and wool-cashmere mac: 18th February 2012
The dry-waxed mac marries the weather-proof properties of British Millerain with a bespoke-made wool-cashmere. "Wax and wool-cashmere mac"More
Moving images from West Yorkshire: 10th February 2012
The finest mohair mill in the country, doing what it does — on video. "Moving images from West Yorkshire"More
Export strength: 22nd January 2012
Fifteen "high summer" garments made and sent over to Japan in six short weeks over Christmas and New Year. "Export strength"More
Four walls and a lid: 19th January 2012
Coming soon: a workshop on Boundary St. in London. As its name implies, part of it is for work and part of it is shop. "Four walls and a lid"More
Some meritable mohair making: 13th December 2011
The newest makers write-up returns to West Yorkshire, and a place at the top table of domestic manufacturing. "Some meritable mohair making"More
Bashed-about wool-cashmere blazer: 27th November 2011
Had a hard but character-building upbringing, the birdseye wool-cashmere cloth of the three-button blazer. "Bashed-about wool-cashmere blazer"More
The made-in-Donegal cardigan: 10th November 2011
Offers little in terms of details, trims, or stitches, the Donegal minimal cardigan, but nor does it much need them. "The made-in-Donegal cardigan"More
Revisiting the moss-stitch: 1st November 2011
Makes for deceptively steadying knitwear, the moss stitch — the all-new button-up crewneck cardigan, for instance. "Revisiting the moss-stitch"More
Overshirts in sideways chalk-stripe wool: 17th October 2011
The chalk-stripe woollen seam overshirt: the first fruits of partnership with a mohair mill in West Yorkshire. "Overshirts in sideways chalk-stripe wool"More
Hopsack tweed autumn jackets: 13th October 2011
The neat jacket might be a simple-looking garment, but below its surface are one or two autumn-aiding peculiarities. "Hopsack tweed autumn jackets"More
From the Heavy Woollen District, pt. 2: 5th October 2011
The second serving of a behind-scenes look at West Yorkshire’s — if not England’s — oldest and finest cashmere maker. "From the Heavy Woollen District, pt. 2"More
Wool-cashmere and cord vests: 1st October 2011
Flecked wool-cashmere and ten-wale cord on the outside, warm wool-melton inside, and winter-proof quilting between. "Wool-cashmere and cord vests"More
Lambswool stitched three ways: 22nd September 2011
Some soft but steadying Yorkshire-spun lambswool and three fit-for-purpose stitches make up the Nottinghamshire-made three-stitch rollneck jumper. "Lambswool stitched three ways"More
Making things better: 12th September 2011
Production: back on track. The first bunch of autumn-ready garments are off the line at a new London factory. "Making things better"More
Introducing the Kelly collar: 16th August 2011
Take a penny collar, neaten it up, then add a tab to brings its points together — do that and you get a Kelly collar. "Introducing the Kelly collar"More
From the Heavy Woollen District, pt. 1: 21st June 2011
First of a two-parter. Words and pictures from a world-beating mill in West Yorkshire in the north of England. "From the Heavy Woollen District, pt. 1"More
Panama stowaway overshirts: 29th May 2011
Two sturdy cotton-panama overshirts, with large pocketing, at the light-jacket end of the overshirt continuum. "Panama stowaway overshirts"More
Half-hidden placket raglan shirts: 5th May 2011
Cumbria-made cotton pinpoint shirts: expertly woven, satisfyingly crisp, and disciplined with a good wash. "Half-hidden placket raglan shirts"More
Cotton-drill tour jacket: 19th April 2011
A four-button jacket, made from crisp, comfortable cotton-drill, and intended to be worn in two different ways. "Cotton-drill tour jacket"More
Midlands-made horn buttons: 1st April 2011
Horn buttons makers in the British Isles weren't always so tricky to come by, but now, for one well-trod reason or another, this is only one. "Midlands-made horn buttons"More
Samples and small runs in North London: 14th March 2011
Not the most prepossessing of places, the workroom, but a textbook example of the sort of place that the trade really would be lost without. "Samples and small runs in North London"More
Spring-weight linen shirts: 21st February 2011
Shirts made from an organic linen, sourced from a mill between the Pennines and the Calder in West Yorkshire. "Spring-weight linen shirts"More
Wool-cashmere charcoal shirt: 6th January 2011
The pockets of mills in south-east Gloucestershire are a prolific source of good wools — not least the charcoal wool-cashmere used for shirting this winter. "Wool-cashmere charcoal shirt"More
Moss-stitched in time for winter: 22nd November 2010
Grey and navy moss-stitch crewnecks for Book No. 1, knitted by a family-run mill in Nottingham in numbers that are comfortably counted on one hand. "Moss-stitched in time for winter"More
Overshirts and under jackets: 1st November 2010
Occupying wardrobe middle-ground, the turned-down collar overshirt is available for Autumn and Winter 2010 in slate grey and mustard cotton-twill. "Overshirts and under jackets"More
Cotton-twill winter work jacket: 11th October 2010
The first work jacket of the season is nothing if not winter-proof, constructed as it is from the most stouthearted cotton-twill that north-west England has to offer. "Cotton-twill winter work jacket"More
Brushed-cotton autumn shirts: 27th September 2010
With summer steadily drawing to a close, and the crisp days of early autumn imminent, the first group of new season garments have arrived. "Brushed-cotton autumn shirts"More
Some real horn buttons: 1st August 2010
With five generations of experience, our supplier of horn buttons — one of the last few in England — knows a thing or two about making them. "Some real horn buttons"More
Preface now in stock: 14th May 2010
Preface is a small set of garments for summer 2010. It has been put together with mills and co-operatives from Lancashire to Cumbria, and from the Midlands to London. "Preface now in stock"More
Open all hours: 12th February 2010
It is no slight pleasure to announce that S.E.H Kelly is now up and running and online. "Open all hours"More